Finding unique pizza in Kansas City is almost impossible. Whether it’s plain cheese or Hawaiian, I love any slice of pizza, but finding a place I truly like is a never ending-challenge. So, when a classmate suggested a local spot, Orange By: Devoured, known for its intricate pizzas, I couldn’t pass up the potential of adding a new favorite to my list.
As I walked into the restaurant tucked into Kansas City’s Martini Corner District, I was shocked to find it empty at 6 p.m. on a Friday. Despite its lack of customers, the building had a personality of its own. The tiny restaurant can’t seat more than 22 people, even if they all crammed in. It felt casual but unique, with orange Spanish tiles, violet walls and 70s retro seating.
They offered 11 different pizzas, which unfortunately only sold as whole 11-inch pies. I decided on three pizzas, splurging almost $50 for pizzas that could barely feed two people per pie.
With minimal seating, I decided on a small couch tucked into the restaurant’s side room and waited about eight minutes for my pizzas to be brought to me. One look at all the pies and I could tell my stomach would be in knots after trying all three, with a toppings and cheese overload on all three.
As I took a bite out of the the freshly baked Classic Cheese, I was underwhelmed by the flavor. A simple cheese pizza seems hard to mess up, but it completely missed the mark. The crust was supposed to be thin and light, but it was slightly doughy and didn’t have nearly enough sauce to help balance the bold mozzarella flavor.
The parmesan, pecorino and basil did add some bold contrast to the flavor with a more aged cheese flavor, but even as a mozzarella lover, the taste left me unsatisfied. The slight hint of the sauce was the most bearable part of the pie, with a herby and fresh tomato taste. But, the Classic Cheese lacked real flavor and was an utter disappointment.
I must admit that the thought of blueberry incorporated into my pizza left me with questions, but the Jam Bam lives up to its name.
When the flavor of the blueberry ricotta hit my mouth, there was no doubt in my mind that blueberry should be a staple on every pizza I eat from that moment on. The contrast between the savory potatoes, light rosemary notes and the sweet blueberry ricotta worked together to create an original and delicious taste. And the smokey prosciutto added a much-needed savory flavor but a slightly chewy texture.
I especially loved the light, thin and slightly charred crust that paired well with the toppings — a redemption from the Classic Cheese. The “white sauce” had minimal flavor, but the toppings alone made the pizza, which is something that can’t be found at your local Pizza Hut.
Just by the sight of the Newbie, I could tell I was in for a burst of flavor with toppings covering the entire pie from the crust to the bubbling hot center.
The Italian sausage was deliciously seasoned with the herbs and paired nicely with the sweetness of the hot honey — although the heat level was underwhelming. I appreciated how the roasted garlic was strategically placed around the pizza and didn’t leave an overwhelming taste in my mouth.
The caramelized shallots added an unnecessary slimy texture and the dish lacked a sweet flavor to help balance the savory notes from the sausage. The almost non-existent layer of red sauce heightened a slightly overbearing sharp cheese flavor, but overall, I thought the seasoning and toppings gave the pizza its delicious, original taste.
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